Picked up a UDS barrel at work. Held aggregate for a lab and no liner so should be pretty easy to work with. It has a locking ring for the lid but the lever is over top of the lid so trying to use it for the bottom could be problematic as I won't sit level. I plan to take this build slowly and try to get it right the first time.

Questions.

Is a removable bottom a huge advantage?

I've seen some ball valves piped up to the top by the lid. Advantages and disadvantages?

Is the purpose of the initial burn out to kill anything that might be inside or to remove the paint on the outside or both?

3 ea 3/4 in air intakes(including ball valve) or 2ea -1 in.?

I've seen a few different charcoal baskets. Does the donut type(coal filled around the center "hole") have any merit?

How do you go about mounting a deep fryer thermometer in the side?

I'm sure as this progresses I have more questions and I do apprecate any and all feedback. I'll include pics when I get going on this.

Lou

Lou,

I think you'll like the UDS. :thumb: Allow me to give you my humble opinion in response to some of your questions.


I've seen some ball valves piped up to the top by the lid. Advantages and disadvantages?


Disadvantage -- some people report restricted draw. Lots of people do it this way though
Advantage -- You don't have to bend over



Is the purpose of the initial burn out to kill anything that might be inside or to remove the paint on the outside or both?


Just to remove "stuff" from the inside.


3 ea 3/4 in air intakes(including ball valve) or 2ea -1 in.?


Either way will work but I'd go with 3 ea 3/4 in air intakes(including ball valve)


I've seen a few different charcoal baskets. Does the donut type(coal filled around the center "hole") have any merit?


I've never tried one. Matter of personal preference I think since so many folks seem happy both ways.


How do you go about mounting a deep fryer thermometer in the side?


http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3732

Hope this helps.

Dave

Questions.

Is a removable bottom a huge advantage?

Mine is fixed and it hasn't been problematic, I just clean it out every now and then.

I've seen some ball valves piped up to the top by the lid. Advantages and disadvantages?


Depends on how lazy ya wanna be :-) But really, it doesn't require much adjustment once it's set. Either way seems to work equally as well.


Is the purpose of the initial burn out to kill anything that might be inside or to remove the paint on the outside or both?


B/c it gives you a reason to play with FIRE!!! :-D

But yest to all of the above.


3 ea 3/4 in air intakes(including ball valve) or 2ea -1 in.?



I like the idea of more/smaller over few/bigger. I'm not sure how it really affects anything, but allowing a more even flow of air into the drum around the perimeter can't be bad :noidea:



I've seen a few different charcoal baskets. Does the donut type(coal filled around the center "hole") have any merit?



Mine's just standard and works great. You might want two, one for long smokes, and a smaller for short smokes (takes less charcoal to fill it up).


How do you go about mounting a deep fryer thermometer in the side?


I bought a Ø1 1/4" bolt and drilled the appropriate hole for my thermo through the center of the bolt. Then mounted that to the drum. Works like a charm.


Good luck on your build, they are super easy to build and awesome to use!

I have the removeable lid as the bottom, I don't remove it after EVERY smoke but it is easy to more thoroughly clean the ash out every once in a while...to avoid the ring making it sit uneven I bolted some caster wheels to the bottom. Makes it sit evenly and mobile.

I have 2 short thermos but I like the idea of the deep fryer one.

The burn out will effectively "clean" the inside AND remove paint from the outside...but if yours is already bare metal then maybe just clean it out and leave the paint alone.

I don't have ball valves, my intakes are a little different. There are pics here...
http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2067

Since that thread I replaced the covers with a little longer piece and sealed the opening a little tighter with a bead of high temp silicone-more so when the other vents are closed they do not leak air.

My one ad vice would be to go big on the ball valve about a 1" is what I have used on the uds I built. that way you can get more flow if you need it but still choke it down if you don't...good luck...for therms I would check out rivercountry101.com they are all calibratable (is that a word) and reasonably priced

I agree with the 1" Ball Valve. At least if you are piping it up the side. That is what I have and I have not had any issues with air flow. I was always told the reason you pipe it up the side is so after a long day of smoking and you are all drunk you don't have to bend over and fall into your smoker when trying to adjust your ball valve. haha That was all I needed to hear to make the decision to pipe it up the side.

Everyone pretty much answered you but even if you put the valve down low you dont need to bend over to adjust it, you can use your foot, works just fine so imo I would keep it simple and do the three 3/4" on the bottom, its tried and true.

Great input everyone and thanx. I just thought of something else. I've read where some use the UDS to grill also. I have and 80's vintage Weber Kettle(22in)that I use often and really like. However if the UDS is also good for grilling I could use the lid, grate, and coal grate for the UDS. I'm a little concerned that the UDS won't be as "charcoal friendly" as the Weber. Any thoughts?

Lou

I trade parts between my 22.5" charcoal grill and my UDS. That way I can have both :-D

I'm a little concerned that the UDS won't be as "charcoal friendly" as the Weber. Any thoughts?


I'm not sure what you mean by charcoal friendly but the UDS works great as a grill if you have another set of bolts to set something on to raise up the charcoal basket.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1575

Just light a whole chimney full of charcoal and dump it on the bottom of your charcoal basket and grill away. :thumb:

Dave

Another level is next on the do it...also Jack a level for a rotator...Get after it Lou! Ain't nothing but time, labor & $$$...

Dave, by "charcoal friendly" I mean the Weber kettle is very effiecient with the charcoal usage. From the link you posted it sound like it will work almost as well. Buy since I'll need 3 major pieces of the Weber for the UDS(food grate, coal grate and lid)I've decide to spring for a new Weber and use the parts I need off the old one. Hate to retire it but it is starting to get holes in a couple of spost near the coal grate. I't will be interesting to see if the new Webers are made with the same quality as the old. I can't imagine being without a kettle on my deck.

Dave, by "charcoal friendly" I mean the Weber kettle is very effiecient with the charcoal usage.

Gotcha. :thumb: I've never tried to choke down the coals after a grilling session in the UDS. I remember that was quite easy with the Kettle. But then I usually just light a chimney full and lay it out when I use the UDS in "grilling mode".


Buy since I'll need 3 major pieces of the Weber for the UDS(food grate, coal grate and lid)

Actually, I'd use the charcoal grate from a smaller Weber for a charcoal basket.

It's 13.5" and the normal charcoal grate is 17".

I made another basket with a 17" grate but I'm not convinced it worked much better.:noidea:

Dave

Been collecting hard ware for this project. Nipples, bolts, nuts, washer etc. But when It comes time to paint the only color of high temp paint I've seen is black. Where do you go to get other colors?

Where do you go to get other colors?
You can use high temp engine paint from a auto parts store. That should give you a few more options other than black stove paint. =)

Thanx littlechief and welcome to S-M!

Pick up any color that you want it dont have to be high temp. I use the cheap paint from lowes. I have not had paint burn off yet I have had some of the lighter colors turn dark if I get a big flare up but that only happened once or twice.

Pick up any color that you want it dont have to be high temp. I use the cheap paint from lowes. I have not had paint burn off yet I have had some of the lighter colors turn dark if I get a big flare up but that only happened once or twice.

Cat's right...painted all kinds of piston powered airplane engines that run about 350-375* rattle can or whatever ya want. Got imron at my disposal so the UDS is gettin a Joan Rivers here in a bit!

Been collecting hard ware for this project. Nipples, bolts, nuts, washer etc. But when It comes time to paint the only color of high temp paint I've seen is black. Where do you go to get other colors?

Yeah it doesn't have to be high heat paint. But the Duplicolor High Heat Engine enamel sure looks good in Daytona Yellow. :thumb:

You can order it, among other colors, here.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Duplicolor/Duplicolor-Engine-Enamel/763060/10002/-1

Your local auto parts store may have some colors and the primer if you decide to do that.

Dave

Interesting, I just assumed it should be high temp. I know the the UDS will generally run at low temps but when firing it up or using it for grilling the temps might run higher. I got time to think about it but if I can get the colors I want I might still use high temp. Thanx for the input folks! Might actually get started on it this weekend.

Interesting, I just assumed it should be high temp. I know the the UDS will generally run at low temps but when firing it up or using it for grilling the temps might run higher.

Or when after a smoke you don't quite get the lid on correctly and the temp kind of runs away on you. :whistle:

Purely hypothetical situation of course. :lol:

Dave

Thanx littlechief and welcome to S-M!
Thanks for the welcome.
I used high temp paint on my drum because I sometimes I smoke / cook at high heats. When I smoke large turkeys I have a grate temp of 400*+ I basically use it like a outdoor oven. I also have it set-up so the charcoal basket can sit just below the grate for grilling.
If your just using it for low & slow 250* or less any paint will probably work.

Littlechief, you should start a thread and introduce yourself.

Hmmm, DuPont's ChromAlusion if they made it in high heat... that would rock!

Hmmm, DuPont's ChromAlusion if they made it in high heat... that would rock!

And guessin & knowin you...Titty Pink! :sweating: Damn damn damn..Louie...frickin skull...:noidea:

And guessin & knowin you...Titty Pink! :sweating: Damn damn damn..Louie...frickin skull...:noidea:

Since I plan on using a kettle lid I'd have to come up with a different kind of handle.:whistle:

Heat deflector or not? How about a water pan as a heat deflector/sink? Think I found a source for expanded metal.

Heat deflector or not?


Yes. No. Maybe so. :noidea: :lol:

Put expanded metal on a set of bolts about halfway up the drum. Then use a perforated pizza pan as a deflector. Try it with and try it without and see which way you like better as far as control, fuel use, and product taste. :thumb:


How about a water pan as a heat deflector/sink?


I'd say no on the water pan. But that's me. :lol:

Way too big a heat sink and would add unecessary humidity IMHO. Mine seems to cook pretty moist. :noidea:

Dave

Still got a couple of questions even thought mine is now operational. Other than catching ash, what is the reason for putting a pan under the charcoal basket. Is it just to help save the bottom of the barrel?

Also, how well does a Weber lid take paint or is there some prep to do first?

Ash collector...I scotch brited my lid primed & painted...seem's fine.

Ash collector...I scotch brited my lid primed & painted...seem's fine.

What he said. :thumb:

Plus, I think the ash is pretty corrosive if it gets damp if I recall correctly. :noidea: So it would help protect the bottom of the barrel.

Dave

What he said. :thumb:

Plus, I think the ash is pretty corrosive if it gets damp if I recall correctly. :noidea: So it would help protect the bottom of the barrel.

Dave

Yep on the corrosion...on my refurb I smacked the bottom with a heavy rod at work to make a dimple & drilled a 3/8" hole in the center to drain...I have been knowed to leave it out in the rain...:eek:

I'll get pic's of the rotisserie mod...I like it!... N' I'm work in progress for a peanut roaster! :nana2: Pic's will be comin....

I liked the idea of controling the ball valve without bending over, but didn't really want the snorkel air intake so I copied smokin Tim's design. An extension to the control handle. Best of both worlds in my opinion.
http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10032

I'm new here...

So, the valve is strictly for air control?

I'm new here...

So, the valve is strictly for air control?


Yes, it is how you regulate the temp...

Welcome to Smoked-Meat.. If you would take a minute and jump up to the New Members forum and tell us a bit about yourself and what you smoke / grill on we can help alot more...


Smoke on

Yeah Man...Get on in here like the Boss said! :thumb: Pleasure to have ya here! We can dial ya in with that Drum...

Thanx guys! Didn't know that the ash was corrosive when wet. The ash pan just didn't seem to me to make removing the ash any easier so I thought there might be another reason for it. So, ash pan, heat deflector, side shelf and I'll be just about there.

The ash pan just didn't seem to me to make removing the ash any easier

Yep. :thumb: You're right about that. :lol: Actually, it's kind of a pain to lean in there and try and lift the pan out without dumping it. :lol: But it keeps the majority of if off the bottom of the drum. Don't want the bottom of the drum to start rusting away.

Dave

I thought I saw where someone that had used bolts for their charcoal basket legs had also run them through the ash pan so it would lift out with the basket.

I'm thinkin' that they used one of those el-cheapo table-top round grills....just swiped the bottom part to catch the ash...I could see it working pretty well with the exception that I have yet to see any of those el-cheapo grills for sale ANYWHERE around here.....:noidea: