Just Getting Started

[Tean94]

So I'm pretty much sold on the idea of building me a UDS. I've even begun with the firebox. It's about 17 inches across by 10 inches high. Now I just need to get a larger pan to mount to the bottom for easy ash removal. Though my hands were pretty tore up after playing with that expanded metal. (Note to self, wear gloves next time! )

I've also found a place in Salt Lake that sells reconditioned drums for $35, which includes the lid and a Lever Locking ring. It's been painted red on the outside and I believe on the inside as well. First question, what's the best way to remove that paint on the inside? Fire or chemicals or sanding?

Next questions, which is better for the ball valve, 1 or 3/4 inch? Why have two more ports on the bottom if they are capped? Do you ever open them and if so, why would you need to or should you have three ball valves instead of 2 caps?

Thermometer question. I've seen some mounted on the lid and others where the meat is. Which is better and why?

I'd like to have two racks in the smoker. What is the best method to do this so that I can get the first rack in and out past the bolts for the top rack? Also, how far apart should these two racks be?

Lastly for now, how much fuel do I need for a brisket and what types of fuel should I get?

Thanks!!! Very excited to start building this UDS for my first time!


My Firebox...

[Richtee]

First off...welcome to Smoked-Meat...

I'm not a drum expert, but I know the basics:

1" valves

You want at least two I hear tell... sometimes ya gotta "give 'er the gas" and maybe even open a capped inlet?

You want grate level temps if ya can.

A bit of engineering regarding the bolt/rack holder length will allow snaking one rack past the top position.


Lump charcoal is the overwheming favorite. I hear tell of drums doing a brisky on one full load...

[Texas-Hunter]

Just hang tight.. Some of the drum heads will be along shortly..

[DDave]

to Smoked Meat.

If you haven't done so already, read this thread.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457

If your drum is red on the inside, find another drum. Unless you can get someone to sandblast it for you. The red epoxy phenolic resin liner is almost impossible to burn out and takes considerable time and effort to wirewheel out.

Intakes -- covered in the UDS 101 thread -- 3/4" are fine. Reason for 3 is you need 3 open to start. Once the drum warms up, you need less air. Two caps and one valve let you go anywhere from fully closed (to snuff the fire at the end of a cook) to fully open to start. Caps are cheaper than valves. You could go with 3 valves if you want.

A lot of drums cruise with one cap on and the valve 1/2 open. You'll have to find the sweet spot for yours.

Thermo should be mounted an inch below the cook grate. You want to measure the temp where the meat is not at the top of the lid. Temp in the middle is higher than temp at the side so some people use long stem thermos.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3732

For two racks, use short bolts for the top rack and you can tilt the rack a bit to get down to the bottom rack. Bottom rack goes 24" from the bottom of the charcoal basket, top rack at the top of the rim if you use a Weber lid.

Lots of ways to mount the Weber lid, here's how I did mine.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1347

Fuel -- lump is great but requires a little more attention because of the irregular sized chunks. Lots of folks use briquettes for this reason.

You should be able to cook a brisket on a basket load of fuel. Hard to say exactly how much. Just fill your basket 3/4 full (if it's 17" x 10" you should have plenty) and go for it.

Hope this helps.

Dave

[Slanted88]

Jump in the deep end...Man...Cat's here will get ya on speed with a drum! Do like mine!

[Richtee]

to Smoked Meat.

If you haven't done so already, read this thread.

That's what I meant to say...

thanks Dave!

BTW..Dave is a drumhead ;{)

[Pandemonium]

Dave pretty much took care of your questions, but I will say the only reason I heard to do the 3 air intakes was to get the drum up to grilling heats. I never had to open them all to get it started but it cant hurt, gives you more options, if moneys not a problem go with two 3/4 valves and the third a cap, seems in mine anyway i always need more than one valve open at times so im always messing with a cap which means bending over haha valves are foot controlled

[DDave]

Dave pretty much took care of your questions, but I will say the only reason I heard to do the 3 air intakes was to get the drum up to grilling heats. I never had to open them all to get it started but it cant hurt, gives you more options, if moneys not a problem go with two 3/4 valves and the third a cap, seems in mine anyway i always need more than one valve open at times so im always messing with a cap which means bending over haha valves are foot controlled

What he said.

I was kind of speed typing and my post may have come off as that's the only way to do things. Of course, it's not, although it's probably the most common.

Two 1" intakes will give you a little more potential intake than three 3/4" intakes -- 1.57 square inches versus 1.32. Some folks have even gone with a single 1-1/2" valve which gives you 1.77 square inches of intake area. All depends on what you want to do.

Gary mentioned range -- in my drum I can smoke in the 230° range or do chicken at 400°+ if I light enough charcoal. My Weber lid has two vents though so it does not get choked by lack of exhaust. I can set the charcoal basket on a shelf midway up the drum and get temps of 550°+ at the grate.

They can be very versatile depending on how you build them. Lots of bang for the buck.

Dave

[Pandemonium]

What he said.

I was kind of speed typing and my post may have come off as that's the only way to do things. Of course, it's not, although it's probably the most common.

Two 1" intakes will give you a little more potential intake than three 3/4" intakes -- 1.57 square inches versus 1.32. Some folks have even gone with a single 1-1/2" valve which gives you 1.77 square inches of intake area. All depends on what you want to do.

Gary mentioned range -- in my drum I can smoke in the 230° range or do chicken at 400°+ if I light enough charcoal. My Weber lid has two vents though so it does not get choked by lack of exhaust. I can set the charcoal basket on a shelf midway up the drum and get temps of 550°+ at the grate.

They can be very versatile depending on how you build them. Lots of bang for the buck.

Dave

i agree Dave and I would go with 1' next time and one valve would be plenty for smoking without messing with two inputs.

[curious aardvark]

The red epoxy phenolic resin liner is almost impossible to burn out and takes considerable time and effort to wirewheel out.

I did spend a lot of time last year trying to work out a) what the stuff was and b) if it was toxic. Contacted a couple of paint manafacturers and waded thoruhg a lot of technical spec sheets.
(I don't have adrum yet, I just like to know stuff)

general consensus is that it's harmless. Anything that might be dodgy will be burned out in the initial hi-temp 'burn out'.

So if you can't get all the crap off - seriously, it's not a problem just ignore it.

You're never going to clean the inside of the drum, so after a while it'll be covered in smoke residue anyway.

Other than that - it's been covered :-)

[DDave]

I did spend a lot of time last year trying to work out a) what the stuff was and b) if it was toxic. Contacted a couple of paint manafacturers and waded thoruhg a lot of technical spec sheets.
(I don't have adrum yet, I just like to know stuff)

Thanks for looking into that, Alex. There has been lots of discussion, anecdotal evidence, and "theorizing" but not by anyone with a chemistry background to my knowledge.

general consensus is that it's harmless. Anything that might be dodgy will be burned out in the initial hi-temp 'burn out'.

Is that your professional chemistry background opinion or just the preponderance of the anecdotal evidence?

If it's your professional opinion, well, then I need to finish up on the drum that's been down in the corner of my back yard for the last 3 years. I gave up on it when I couldn't get the liner out.

Dave

[Tean94]

Intakes -- covered in the UDS 101 thread -- 3/4" are fine. Reason for 3 is you need 3 open to start. Once the drum warms up, you need less air. Two caps and one valve let you go anywhere from fully closed (to snuff the fire at the end of a cook) to fully open to start. Caps are cheaper than valves. You could go with 3 valves if you want.

A lot of drums cruise with one cap on and the valve 1/2 open. You'll have to find the sweet spot for yours.

This makes much more sense now. Also, thanks for your other answers. Much appreciated. I haven't seen the drum yet and I'm not certain what color it is on the inside, just that it's been reconditioned and the outside is red. I haven't been able to find any that aren't painted on the inside though.

[Tean94]

general consensus is that it's harmless. Anything that might be dodgy will be burned out in the initial hi-temp 'burn out'.

So if you can't get all the crap off - seriously, it's not a problem just ignore it.

You're never going to clean the inside of the drum, so after a while it'll be covered in smoke residue anyway.

Other than that - it's been covered :-)

Excellent point! Thanks for the information. It just made my worry dissipate.

[Tean94]

Dave pretty much took care of your questions, but I will say the only reason I heard to do the 3 air intakes was to get the drum up to grilling heats. I never had to open them all to get it started but it cant hurt, gives you more options, if moneys not a problem go with two 3/4 valves and the third a cap, seems in mine anyway i always need more than one valve open at times so im always messing with a cap which means bending over haha valves are foot controlled

No bending is a very nice thing. I've seen some who have run a pipe from the top of the barrel to the bottom where the valve is at the top. That seems like a lot of extra work versus using your foot to open or close a valve.

I think I might just go with 2 - 1 inch valves and call it good. Less chance for messing up drilling the holes and getting a good seal.

[Richtee]

No bending is a very nice thing. I've seen some who have run a pipe from the top of the barrel to the bottom where the valve is at the top. That seems like a lot of extra work versus using your foot to open or close a valve.

Not only a bit more work...but you'd need to go 1" to make up for the longer air path. Makes a difference. But it IS kinda cool...mechanical linkage and all