http://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-8890-a1c2.jpgI have a side job replacing two water heaters, one has standard pvc and this one is some weird pipe, what is this piping and what do i need to buy to connect a new one? http://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-11de-6249.jpghttp://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-11f1-2acf.jpg

Sent from a cell phone that is way cooler than yours!! Eat It!! $

Looks like old style pex.

Do they make a connector to change it to pvc ?

it looks to me that you could adapt right at the 90 going into the tank

That water heater looks pretty good to me from your cool cell phone pic.... I'd Just slap some paint on er & she's good as new :thumb: :whistle:

I was gonna say Pex also. What you need to connect them would be determined by the fittings attached to the HW tanks I would think. :noidea:

dat 'der is PEX! old school stuff that sucks balls now a days.

by coade (around here anyway), you are supposed to have a minimum of 18" of hard lines coming out fo the water heater before you can go to CPVC or PEX. the new water heaters typically have threads on their connection ports. you can either run galv nipples, or copper lines with a male-thread adapter out of the top.

once you get the lines set up out of the heater, home depot and lowes both have "press couplings" to go from hard lines to pex or CPVC. they just slip on and you are good to go. they work similar to the quick connects that you find for fridge water line hoses (chinese finger traps).

http://www.lowes.com/pl_Push+Fittings_4294822035_4294937087_?cm_cr=Pipe s+%26+Fittings-_-Web+Activity-_-Pipes+and+Fittings+Top+Flexible+Area-_-SC_Pipe+Fittings++Valves_TopFlexible_Area-_-195608_7_pipes_Pop_Cat-7

check you local codes if possible... a lot of places still don't authorize PVC for use with potable water systems. CPVC, PEX, copper, or galv only around here. personally, i don't trust anything but hard lines, especially when heat is involved, but that's just me.

if the person goes to sell the house without the proper licenses.permits being pulled, there is a chance they will have to file the paper work when they go to sell the house. around here, if you are just replacing stuff, you don't need a permit, but i have no clue about FL codes. it would be a local thing probably, not state.

also, it looks like you are running an electric system... make sure the wires are in a J-box. once again, it'll just make a headache down the road if the owner tries to sell the house and has a home inspector check the place first. the difference here is that whether you need to pull a permit or not to replace the heater, the electrical code violations will still be in effect and can be a problem with inspectors...

Later,
Andy

dat 'der is PEX! old school stuff that sucks balls now a days.

by coade (around here anyway), you are supposed to have a minimum of 18" of hard lines coming out fo the water heater before you can go to CPVC or PEX. the new water heaters typically have threads on their connection ports. you can either run galv nipples, or copper lines with a male-thread adapter out of the top.

once you get the lines set up out of the heater, home depot and lowes both have "press couplings" to go from hard lines to pex or CPVC. they just slip on and you are good to go. they work similar to the quick connects that you find for fridge water line hoses (chinese finger traps).

check you local codes if possible... a lot of places still don't authorize PVC for use with potable water systems. CPVC, PEX, copper, or galv only around here. personally, i don't trust anything but hard lines, especially when heat is involved, but that's just me.

if the person goes to sell the house without the proper licenses.permits being pulled, there is a chance they will have to file the paper work when they go to sell the house. around here, if you are just replacing stuff, you don't need a permit, but i have no clue about FL codes. it would be a local thing probably, not state.

also, it looks like you are running an electric system... make sure the wires are in a J-box. once again, it'll just make a headache down the road if the owner tries to sell the house and has a home inspector check the place first. the difference here is that whether you need to pull a permit or not to replace the heater, the electrical code violations will still be in effect and can be a problem with inspectors...

Later,
Andy

Exactly what he said.^^^:thumb:

Thanks guys I got a 3/4 to 3/4 connector and was able to keep it easy, that pex stuff is pretty cool, I cant believe how easy the connection goes on and it doesnt leak and it pivits damn pretty cool! I got both the water heaters changed out, was good half day! good pay$ on edit the other one was cpvc not pvc my bad

dat 'der is PEX! old school stuff that sucks balls now a days.

by coade (around here anyway), you are supposed to have a minimum of 18" of hard lines coming out fo the water heater before you can go to CPVC or PEX. the new water heaters typically have threads on their connection ports. you can either run galv nipples, or copper lines with a male-thread adapter out of the top.

once you get the lines set up out of the heater, home depot and lowes both have "press couplings" to go from hard lines to pex or CPVC. they just slip on and you are good to go. they work similar to the quick connects that you find for fridge water line hoses (chinese finger traps).

http://www.lowes.com/pl_Push+Fittings_4294822035_4294937087_?cm_cr=Pipe s+%26+Fittings-_-Web+Activity-_-Pipes+and+Fittings+Top+Flexible+Area-_-SC_Pipe+Fittings++Valves_TopFlexible_Area-_-195608_7_pipes_Pop_Cat-7

check you local codes if possible... a lot of places still don't authorize PVC for use with potable water systems. CPVC, PEX, copper, or galv only around here. personally, i don't trust anything but hard lines, especially when heat is involved, but that's just me.

if the person goes to sell the house without the proper licenses.permits being pulled, there is a chance they will have to file the paper work when they go to sell the house. around here, if you are just replacing stuff, you don't need a permit, but i have no clue about FL codes. it would be a local thing probably, not state.

also, it looks like you are running an electric system... make sure the wires are in a J-box. once again, it'll just make a headache down the road if the owner tries to sell the house and has a home inspector check the place first. the difference here is that whether you need to pull a permit or not to replace the heater, the electrical code violations will still be in effect and can be a problem with inspectors...

Later,
Andy

Thanks Andy some great info man, this is an old motel right on the beach and nothing is up to code at all lol the pics are the water heaters just out in the weather lol I meant to take finished pics but didnt, I did them good.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-8890-a1c2.jpgI have a side job replacing two water heaters, one has standard pvc and this one is some weird pipe, what is this piping and what do i need to buy to connect a new one? http://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-11de-6249.jpghttp://tapatalk.com/mu/6168895b-11f1-2acf.jpg

Sent from a cell phone that is way cooler than yours!! Eat It!! $

baffling......Top pic has cpvc and connected to black pipe to boot:whistle: than pics of pex to other tank......someone f-d up.

oh yea, and a qick connect on hot water side.....who piped that tank in??????

oh yea, and a qick connect on hot water side.....who piped that tank in??????

Like I said in another post, that place is a code nightmare lol and holy shit is that pink hahha wow:puke::puke::bolt:

Looks like all the shit I see in Oregon...... :whistle:

Looks like all the shit I see in Oregon...... :whistle:

I didnt realize it was pink till I saw your fancy sig hahha thats 8 megapixels of pure pleasure!!