Questions about meat grinder attachments.

[bsf]

I am very slowly refurbishing a 1920’s/30’s Hobart model 612 chopper (grinder). I am either the 3rd or 4th generation in my family to own this particular unit, but do not have a detailed history of it. It seems current, OEM, Hobart #12 grinder attachments have a prominent “H” cast into the cylinder head. The head that came with my attachment does not. Does anyone know if the vintage attachments also had the “H” cast into head? Are any of the aftermarket stainless or tinned cast iron grinder attachments for #12 hubs of acceptable quality or better?

Thank you in advance.

[Doug S.]

I have no idea but there are some refurbishing guy's on here that should have the answers, but in the mean time

from Utah

[HawgHeaven]

I have no idea but there are some refurbishing guy's on here that should have the answers, but in the mean time

X2. from DelaWhere!

[Mark R]

Contact these folks, they outta know sumptin!
http://www.nbsparts.com/meat-grinders/

[nickelmore]

Post a picture, I have done a few pieces of hobart

[crusty ol salt]

Welcome aboard, glad you dropped in.

Yes sir post a couple of pics, a picture is worth a thousand words

[nickelmore]

I am very slowly refurbishing a 1920’s/30’s Hobart model 612 chopper (grinder). I am either the 3rd or 4th generation in my family to own this particular unit, but do not have a detailed history of it. It seems current, OEM, Hobart #12 grinder attachments have a prominent “H” cast into the cylinder head. The head that came with my attachment does not. Does anyone know if the vintage attachments also had the “H” cast into head? Are any of the aftermarket stainless or tinned cast iron grinder attachments for #12 hubs of acceptable quality or better?

Thank you in advance.

I am not sure what year the casting was incorporated into the hobarts. Similar to today, back in the day there were probably a few companies that made that attachement.

An older "tinned" one is what I would be looking for. The new tinned ones made in china are JUNK.

I do not know the quality of the new stainless ones. If you have patience you can still find real nice ones on ebay for around $100.00

If you really want to get a pristine one you can get it re-tinned. I just had a hobart mixer beater re-tinned at a place in Chicago.

[bsf]

Thank you for the replies. I did not take good photos of the entire motor unit prior to disassembly. Here is a blurry one the motor and two of the attachment parts.







I believe the paired knife and plate sets (1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”, 3/8”) were professionally machined (sharpened) ~20 years ago and have been used little or not at all since. There are also some bronze washers or bushings. The Catalogue of Replacement Parts for this specific unit lists a “Fibre thrust washer for worm” and a “Bronze thrust washer in cylinder”. The purpose of the large bronze washer which fits under the adjusting wheel is not clear to me, and I do not believe any such OEM component exists.

I am not sure what year the casting was incorporated into the hobarts. Similar to today, back in the day there were probably a few companies that made that attachement.

An older "tinned" one is what I would be looking for. The new tinned ones made in china are JUNK.

I do not know the quality of the new stainless ones. If you have patience you can still find real nice ones on ebay for around $100.00

If you really want to get a pristine one you can get it re-tinned. I just had a hobart mixer beater re-tinned at a place in Chicago.

I have been watching ebay for a while. If you are comfortable sharing, can you tell us what specifically you had tinned and how much you paid?

[Ryan]

I've got nothing to ad but I will say nicklemore knows this stuff so you've got a good one helping you. He's helped me a lot and hopefully can help you. BTW

[nickelmore]

I have been watching ebay for a while. If you are comfortable sharing, can you tell us what specifically you had tinned and how much you paid?

That is an oldie but goody, That is the unit I started out with years ago.

Looks to me that it has been subject to some dishwasher mistreatment. The worm and machining look good.

There is a pin that is on the bottom of the housing. SOAK the screw that adjusts that with penetrating fluid to loosen it up.

That pin needs to stick out from the front of the housing.

The use of the large brass washer is probably because there was not enough washers to push the plate tight against the handle.

Another way to explain it. The plates are 1/4 inch thick. The plate needs to stick out past the threads 1/8 of an inch. To prevent spinning the "pin" must be almost flush with front of the plate.

Adjust the worm with fiber/bronze/steel washers to get the plate to the proper depth. Make sure you have the knife in place when you are fitting the washers. I also "coat" the washers with a little pork fat or Clean in Place grease.

Here is a link of one I did.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36638

I had a 20 quart pastry knife for a Hobart mixer retinned at a place in Chicago on the south side near the old stock yards.

Cost me like $15.00 that I sort of did as an experiment to try them out as I may have them do some other things.

I also use a foot switch to run mine, keeps the heat down by only running when needed.

[bsf]

nicklemore, thanks for the info; well explained. I read and bookmarked your thread months ago.

I actually have many questions. I would appreciate your opinion on any of them, but understand if it is just too much. Additionally, I do not expect you necessarily have knowledge of all the finer details, but I am going to ask anyway.

So, assuming I do not bother with re-tinning the attachment, what would your suggestion be for preparing the attachment for use, specifically with regards to rust removal and sanitizing?

My hub and gear case/front bearing bracket have been soaking in mineral spirits for days. However, while pre-cleaning prior to soak, I did notice a white/light grey coating on the internal surfaces. Should I be concerned about protecting that? As part of paint prep, I am considering use of chemical stripper on the exterior surfaces, especially where solely mechanical means would be difficult.

My brushes show very unequal wear. The tension springs appear to be adjusted the same. Have you replaced brushes on these vintage units? If so, where did you source them? I have briefly scanned Ohio Carbon Industries vintage brush catalog.

I plan on removing rotor and stator and spraying with CRC Lectra-Clean. That stuff is used for cleaning stators, energized switch gear, and such. Short circuit device (on the “back” of the rotor, behind the commutator) seemed to operate fine, but wondering if I should disassemble and clean it when the rotor is out. Thoughts?

After disassembly and careful inspection, I think I now understand the design features that are intended to mitigate lubricant migration (to everywhere ) from the 612 gear case and rear bushing. I am not certain if I am going to use liquid gasket (rtv?) at the gear case door or cut a custom gasket from sheet. Additionally, the original materials for the countershaft at the front of the hub are cotton string packing and a flat lead seal. Did you monkey with the cotton string packing and lead seal on your 612?

My father has a 4332 with a #22 attachment, so your 4322 is familiar. He used Hobart labeled Texaco Marfak Multipurpose #2 in his gear case. When I get to that point, what do you suggest for the 612?

Holy cow, that is a lot of questions. Any comments on any of them would be much appreciated.