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  #1  
Old 09-30-2017, 02:20 PM
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Default Replacement of meat grinder attachment cylinder, thrust washer

Has anyone ever removed and replaced the brass or bronze thrust washer that appears pressed into the back (inside) of Hobart-style, grinder attachment cylinders? If so, can you share how you removed the old washer and any other relevant info?

For reference, here are a couple photos of the thrust washer in my very old, #12, grinder attachment cylinder. I have considered attempting to punch it out from the back; angling a punch downwards from the back and trying to contact the back of the washer at the top of the weep hole. I fear buggering up the recess for the washer if I blow out the top of the weep hole, though.
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Old 09-30-2017, 09:58 PM
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First question ....Why?

Second question ....Why?

That looks in pretty good shape.

Use a fiber washer and see what how the plate fits. Add thin steel washers or stainless as needed.
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Old 09-30-2017, 10:54 PM
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Yeah if it’s not damaged, or seizing.
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:25 AM
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If the issue is slop between cutter and the plate, they make a brass spacer to tighten it up.
http://www.onesharpstore.com/catalog...7/10051621.htm
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:44 AM
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Sorry, I was going to look links up for those.

These are generally what I use. I use a dab of grease of a smear of fat on the washer.

http://www.onesharpstore.com/catalog...7/10051616.htm

https://www.amazon.com/McGlaughlin-O...e+-+petrol-gel

You can smooth that out a little bit with a small grinding stone if you feel better.

https://www.amazon.com/Forney-60036-...6867950&sr=1-8

Look at the back of the augur as well. I have seen those machine cut and cast rough.

Also look at the pin at the front and make sure that you can adjust it to make up for the thickness of the washers.
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:15 PM
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Thank you for the responses. I am putting together a final (maybe) materials list to hopefully complete my slow, Hobart Model 612 refurb project.

Yes, the brass thrust washer is rough. I suspect this attachment has been run quite a bit with nothing at the back end except the cylinder thrust washer; no fiber washer.

I do have some small diameter hook & loop backer pads, abrasives to 2000 grit, and a long drill motor extension. Could try cleaning it up.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:53 PM
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From the photos it really does not look bad. I would clean up the rust a bit and run it.

If you really want to dress it up I would cut/punch a 5/8 hole in a roll n lock and use the auger to spin it.

Those 612 are work horses, I did a restore on a little newer one. I will see if PB jacked it.

Wow its still up.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/sho...ghlight=hobart

Last edited by nickelmore; 10-01-2017 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickelmore View Post

Those 612 are work horses, I did a restore on a little newer one. I will see if PB jacked it.

Wow its still up.

http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/sho...ghlight=hobart
Here’s a better link..search links will expire. http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/sho...44808#poststop

And no..it’s not still up...must be yer cache? Pix are gone.
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:36 PM
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Good suggestion to use the auger as a “backer pad”.

What would your suggestion be for general cleaning and rust removal on these tinned attachment components. I do not believe meat has gone through it in quite some time and the storage conditions were not entirely sanitary.

I reviewed your 4322 thread numerous times previously when the photo hosting was still working. You did a nice job. My father has a 4332 with a #22 attachment. I wonder what the first, filler coat was on these old machines. The filler coat on mine was really thick, as was the top coat. It served well to hide the casting imperfections and grinding marks. I took everything down to bare metal with a combination of wire wheeling, abrasive disks, and media blasting. Media blasting was real helpful for pieces with lots of nooks and crannies. I did not bother with any fillers. I just sprayed numerous coats of prime and top coat. I intend to post some photos when/if I reach the finish line.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:16 PM
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I believe that they used bondo or something similar to fill in the cover and casting imperfections. The base coat on mine was also a thick enamel. I thought it was strange as it would prevent any type of field service work for the unit. Of course its probably been 50 years until I figured it needed service.

After I figured out what it was I used a propane torch to soften the bondo and remove the screws.

I used por 15 as a base primer and top coated it with rustoleum hammer finish. Worked out real well.

As far as cleaning, hot soap and water and a bleach bath is your friend. a small brass brush on the rust spots will help a bit.

I was thinking about getting some of the stuff retinnned but the machining after tinning was a little pricey .

Last edited by nickelmore; 10-01-2017 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 10-02-2017, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickelmore View Post
....I was thinking about getting some of the stuff retinnned but the machining after tinning was a little pricey .
What has to be machined after retinning?
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