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  • Air Intakes

    I see most use 3/4 pipe and ball valves, but I saw this
    http://uglydrumsmoker.blogspot.com/2...ng-loaded.html

    Kinda like the idea of nothing sticking out past the drum and less hardware to buy
    Thanks
    Dave

  • #2
    ok I'm going with the blonde question, why does it need to be spring loaded?
    my in take is in the center of the bottom of my drum and just has a flange that you open and close with your foot, no spring... the exhaust is the same flange on top of the pipe... no springs what is the benefit on the spring?



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    • #3
      I guess it holds tension without making the bolt so tight that its hard to turn. keeps it tight to the barrel

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      • #4
        I'm not sure that its necessary, that said, I am new to the UDS scene, and I didn't build mine! Dave should be around and he will give ya some input, he has built a couple!



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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bbqgoddess View Post
          I'm not sure that its necessary, that said, I am new to the UDS scene, and I didn't build mine! Dave should be around and he will give ya some input, he has built a couple!
          Were I to build one it would have the spring. It keeps it tight to the drum, sealing off unwanted airflow, and preventing it from "wandering" open/closed from vibration,/gravity/whatever. Also will not tighten/loosen as threaded dampers can. Might even mod my Lang's intakes similar. They tend to "wander" and it kinda pisses me off.
          In God I trust- All others pay cash...
          Check out the Mad Hunky and products at https://madhunkymeats.com or https://www.facebook.com/MadHunkyMeats
          Lang 60D, The Beast, 18 and 22 WSM, Brinkmann Backroads trailer, Weber 22 Kettle, gutted MB burning watts

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          • #6
            I like that idea!


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            • #7
              Great idea and cheaper than pipe and ball valves. It seams to me the flat stock would need a little curve in it to conform to the shape of the drum. Probably not important until its time to shut things down. Any air leak at all and that baby will keep burning.
              sigpic
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              • #8
                Originally posted by zombini View Post
                Great idea and cheaper than pipe and ball valves. It seams to me the flat stock would need a little curve in it to conform to the shape of the drum. Probably not important until its time to shut things down. Any air leak at all and that baby will keep burning.
                Actually, for a perfect seal, the area around the holes would need to be flat for a perfect seal. Putting a curve in the flat stock would only make it worse when rotating, jacking it more off the surface...


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                • #9
                  Flat seems better since it will be in the vertical position when its time to kill the air flow

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                  • #10
                    These look good, but do not work good at all. I tried a couple of them. To get them to seal good the metal must have a bend in it. That's fine when closed, but when you open it the metal it doesn't lay flat anymore. The drum isn't curved top to bottom, only sideways. They tend to leak and not adjust as good as you may want because the curved metal can't lay flat in two different directions.

                    If you want the valve to be flat, make a intake similar to a Big Green Egg( buy a replacement intake vent ) or buy a kit or just the intake from Big Poppa Smokers

                    https://www.bigpoppasmokers.com/#

                    There are other brands out there that make these or if you are good with metal working, make them yourself.
                    Last edited by BYBBQ; 08-27-2015, 08:15 AM.
                    Jim

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by HawgHeaven View Post
                      Actually, for a perfect seal, the area around the holes would need to be flat for a perfect seal. Putting a curve in the flat stock would only make it worse when rotating, jacking it more off the surface...
                      Yea...your right. It wouldn't rotate worth a hoot...it would need to be a slider I guess..
                      sigpic
                      GMG Daniel Boone
                      UDS
                      Weber 22.5" Kettle (blk)
                      Vision Kamado grill
                      Weber Genesis Silver
                      Smokin Tex
                      MES 40 with legs Gen 2.5
                      Maverick ET 732
                      Brown and lime green ThermaPens
                      2 orange ThermoPops
                      A-Maze-N Tube 18"
                      A-Maze-N Smoker 5"x8"
                      Vortex

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by HawgHeaven View Post
                        Actually, for a perfect seal, the area around the holes would need to be flat for a perfect seal. Putting a curve in the flat stock would only make it worse when rotating, jacking it more off the surface...
                        I guess one could dolly-block out the small area pretty easy to flat. But even then I don't know if yer gonna get air tight. Kinda forgot that drum owners are pretty proud of "turning them off" A Lang ain't gonna do that So I don't care about air tight.
                        In God I trust- All others pay cash...
                        Check out the Mad Hunky and products at https://madhunkymeats.com or https://www.facebook.com/MadHunkyMeats
                        Lang 60D, The Beast, 18 and 22 WSM, Brinkmann Backroads trailer, Weber 22 Kettle, gutted MB burning watts

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Richtee View Post
                          I guess one could dolly-block out the small area pretty easy to flat. But even then I don't know if yer gonna get air tight. Kinda forgot that drum owners are pretty proud of "turning them off" A Lang ain't gonna do that So I don't care about air tight.
                          I have an idear for a bolt on flapper with base. The base has a curved inner surface to fit the drum, and a flat outer surface on which the flapper would ride. Gotta talk to me mechanical guys to see how much it would cost.

                          Anyone know the diameter of a 55 gal drum?
                          Last edited by HawgHeaven; 08-27-2015, 02:32 PM.


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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by HawgHeaven View Post
                            I have an idear for a bolt on flapper with base. It has a curved inner surface to fit the drum, and a flat outer surface on which the flapper would ride. Gotta talk to me mechanical guys to see how much it would cost.

                            Anyone know the diameter of a 55 gal drum?
                            Weber 22 lids fit them ;{) Err..I think it's the 22?
                            In God I trust- All others pay cash...
                            Check out the Mad Hunky and products at https://madhunkymeats.com or https://www.facebook.com/MadHunkyMeats
                            Lang 60D, The Beast, 18 and 22 WSM, Brinkmann Backroads trailer, Weber 22 Kettle, gutted MB burning watts

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                            • #15
                              "572 mm
                              Standard drums have inside dimensions of 22.5 inches (572 mm) diameter and 33.5 inches (851 mm) height. These dimensions yield a volume of about 13,320 cubic inches (6.19 bushels) or 57.66 US gallons (48.0 imp gal; 218.3 L), but they are commonly filled to about 200 litres."
                              In God I trust- All others pay cash...
                              Check out the Mad Hunky and products at https://madhunkymeats.com or https://www.facebook.com/MadHunkyMeats
                              Lang 60D, The Beast, 18 and 22 WSM, Brinkmann Backroads trailer, Weber 22 Kettle, gutted MB burning watts

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