After browsing through the forum I've seen all the great smokers folks have built using drums and I'm going to attempt my own after getting a drum out of the blue. I'm probably similar to a few folks here in how they got started in that I have an assortment of outdoor grilling, etc options. A gas grill, lodge sportsman grill, a regular weber (which I have the rotisserie attachment for...makes a great turkey!), I've used the weber to smoke ribs, brisket, etc but always knew there was a better way to smoke.
Anyway the drum came my way from my father who was cleaning up his basement. In the distant past he used to make his own wine and one of the things he collected along the way is a 55 gallon stainless drum with a lift of lid (open head I guess is the proper term). He never used it to store wine. He got it from a friend who once worked at the local Herbox factory (chicken soup powder) that closed decades ago. So I know from the person is came from that it was a food grade stainless drum and didn't have chemicals, etc in it. It's also smooth sided and has casters installed that are welded to the bottom (not through bolted).
Once I get started I'll post some pictures. It seems Bbq Bubba's basic UDS plans are exactly what I'll be doing. I expect to have follow up questions so thanks in advance for helping a newbie!
So here's my first newbie question. Given that the drum is stainless, is there anything in general I should be aware of? Such as, if I drill 3/4" holes to thread in 1" nipples for vents, will the stainless be too hard for the nipple threads to bite? If yes, I might think about a different way of doing the air intakes. Magnets won't work but I could take 1900 box covers and attach with one bolt on top and then slide it a little or as much as I want to restrict airflow. Somewhat similar to how vents on a weber function.
Other question is about making the holes themselves. I have a "knock out punch", similar to: http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html
Is this fine to use or should I get a stepped bit or a hole saw style bit? I'm asking this because again the drum is stainless and might be harder than a steel one.
Also, do I still need to do a burn out even if I've scrubbed it thoroughly? Happy to do it but will probably need to get a weed torch. Living in NY suburbs, a drum fire in your backyard might draw unwanted attention or even fines (you can't burn your lawn refuse in my town).
One last thing, I do intend to fit a weber lid but it doesn't fit cleanly with out modifications now, the lid is a touch small and I don't have a donor lid to tinker with yet.
Thanks in advance for all the knowledge sharing and I'll get some pictures up soon. Right now though, it's just a drum :-) so the picture wouldn't be that exciting.
to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo
if I drill 3/4" holes to thread in 1" nipples for vents, will the stainless be too hard for the nipple threads to bite?
If the steel doesn't give, I imagine the pipe threads will. And since the close nipples are tapered, I would think you will be okay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo
Other question is about making the holes themselves. I have a "knock out punch", similar to: http://www.harborfreight.com/knockou...kit-91201.html
Is this fine to use or should I get a stepped bit or a hole saw style bit?
Can't help you there. I used a step bit but then my drums weren't stainless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo
Also, do I still need to do a burn out even if I've scrubbed it thoroughly?
No burn out necessary. If the inside is clean and rust free, you're good to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo
One last thing, I do intend to fit a weber lid but it doesn't fit cleanly with out modifications now, the lid is a touch small and I don't have a donor lid to tinker with yet.
Lots of ways to do it without a kettle bottom. Here's a Weber lid mod I did to my second drum without a kettle bottom.
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"All welcome, take what ya need, share what ya know. " -- Richtee, 12/2/2010
Thanks Dave. Great details and advice. I saw your clever lid-fit post (like most newbies, I've read pretty much the whole UDS forum) and I think that might be the best bet.
Until I get an extra kettle grill to cannibalize though I think I'm going to craft a chimney type exhaust in the existing lid. It doesn't have any holes and I think I'm going to go chimney because it will be left out in the weather and 8 1/2" holes would mean I need to use a cover but given how long I understand these stay hot, I expect it'll get wet often.
On to yet another question. I'm intrigued by the idea of an adjustable grate height system. I came across this, which I know most have probably seen http://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15501, but I'm not sure if the actual shelf brackets can stand the heat, etc long term. The concept is pretty cool in its flexibility. So from back in my sailing days I remembered these...http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...069&id=1774178
When not in use they fold up. Too expensive and big for this application but maybe something similar in concept and smaller is out there?
Here are the "before" pictures. From what I've seen, this seems like an unusual drum for a UDS. Extra details for the pictures...
The bottom of the drum has interesting info. Apart from the patent number, I guess it's 304 stainless. The 55 in the 16-55-70 I guess means gallons. Couldn't figure out the rest with a quick google so please comment if you know what it means. USS is US Steel it seems.
The caster base is very heavy, maybe half the weight of the whole drum. Didn't put it on a scale but feels like 30lbs at least. The casters were obviously made to move the whole thing over a concrete factory type floor with a full load. Probably not ideal for anything less smooth but I don't think I'll change it.
The dings look worse in the picture so not sure if I'm going to bother hammering them out. I would imagine it would be deafening to do it anyway.
Otherwise hope the pictures are interesting and please please feel free to comment or offer advice, it would be wonderful to hear thoughts from others with more knowledge.
I'm not going to start drilling until I'm a bit more confident in how it'll go together.
So made some progress. Bought the valve, nipples, handles, stainless nuts / bolts, a 13-1/2" charcoal grate and found the old pizza pan to eventually use as an ash pan. Been actually having some trouble finding expanded metal. Local HD doesn't carry it, neither does the small commercial building supply. Going to a metal fabricator tomorrow, hopefully they have some scrap.
Anyway, on to my newest question...
I was hoping for some advice on the lid. Until I can figure out a dome weber style top I'm going to use the original lid. Since this is most likely going to stay outside, I'm reluctant to drill 8 small holes around the lid. It would mean I'd need to get a cover or another way to plug the holes while not in use.
I was thinking of a 2" vent stack. Maybe a threaded flange (this idea: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ANV...WJ9?Pid=search) with a 8-12" high threaded pipe sticking up which I can then put a threaded cap on. That means once I shut the valve and capped the other two intakes, it would be sealed up pretty well.
Any opinions on this? Will I regret my decision?
As always, very much appreciate any and all advice.
Did I read the price of that flange correctly? If it's gonna be a temporary lid until you can find a Weber lid I would try to find the correct size hole saw and just thread the nipple into the lid like the air intakes. Some conduit locknuts, one on each side would help also. But I'm cheap.
You might find someone to loan you a holesaw without having to buy one.
If it's gonna be a temporary lid until you can find a Weber lid I would try to find the correct size hole saw and just thread the nipple into the lid like the air intakes. Some conduit locknuts, one on each side would help also.
In fact, I have seen some use PVC as a stack. IF you are going to stay at or below smoking temps (250°) it may be okay. I can't remember how the discussion went.
Also, you really don't need height to the stack to create draw like a conventional smokestack. Just a 2" hole will work.
Dave
__________________
UDS 1.0a.02.04
Brinkmann Smoke 'N Pit with Afterburner
Charbroil Masterflame
Maverick ET-73
Taylor 1470 Digital Thermometers
Blue Thermapen
Auber Smoker Controller (fan plug goes in the middle port ) Proud Smoked -Meat Member #88
-
"All welcome, take what ya need, share what ya know. " -- Richtee, 12/2/2010
Yeah, sorry I'm not buying that flange, just using as an example picture. In hindsight I should have been clearer when I wrote "threaded flange (this idea...". I bought a 2" flange at HD for a few bucks. It's galvanized but since it sits on the lid outside I figured it was cool.
Thanks on the advice on not needing a stack. I could just get a threaded plug to seal things up when needed.
Great! Plan to start drilling soon...will post some more pictures.
Got around to making the basket last week and have started the intake holes etc. Decided to go with as much stainless as I could so grab handle, nipples, caps and ball valves are all coming in the mail. They totaled about $40. Still need to figure out how I'm going to do the lid, leaning toward one 2" hole (stainless flange w/ plug nut). Found one for about $18 on amazon with free shipping.
BTW, I know it's isn't quite straight, I need to fiddle with the legs a bit.
Can't help you there. I used a step bit but then my drums weren't stainless.
Dave
So I answered my own question Dave. The punch set I have wouldn't give the right size hole. I used the 3/4" and the hole was about 7/8". I think these are electricians punch kit so even though the punch says 3/4" it's made to fit the CONNECTOR that fits a 3/4" conduit. Fortunately I didn't use the 1" otherwise I'd be shopping for a 1-1/4" nipple!
So I answered my own question Dave. The punch set I have wouldn't give the right size hole. I used the 3/4" and the hole was about 7/8". I think these are electricians punch kit so even though the punch says 3/4" it's made to fit the CONNECTOR that fits a 3/4" conduit. Fortunately I didn't use the 1" otherwise I'd be shopping for a 1-1/4" nipple!
That's what's called a knock-out punch. The neat things about it is, although you need to drill a pilot hole for the first punch, you can use larger sizes without worrying about having to drilling another pilot hole.
You can offset existing holes somewhat like a nibbler. You can make whatever size hole you want with radius edges instead of the the square edges made by a nibbler.
They are sized according to the conduit dimension.
Greenlee is one manufacturer, but they are pricy. Nibblers are much pricier!
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