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  • aztec-style barbecue!

    alright, folks - inspired by rivet's mayan-style barbecue pork, i decided to have a go at it from the point of view of a later empire, the aztecs.

    the mayans actually ruled the aztecs before they (the aztecs) rose in power and dominated central mexico. the aztecs revolted against the mayans and had many wars with them and finally moved en-masse, to escape the mayans, to the north-central part of mexico. legend has it that their seer said that they would be free when they found a place where they would see an eagle killing a serpent (indicative of the mayans who bowed to kukulkan, the feathered serpent god.) as they traveled, much like the wandering jews, they came across a lake where they saw a small island where a huge cactus grew. on top of the cactus, they saw an eagle killing a serpent.

    they decided then, that was THE place, and settled on the island in the lake, which provided a defensive barrier for them. they built up the islands in the lake and that became the ancient city of tenochtitlan, where the aztec empire grew. this capital on the lake of the aztec empire was later encountered and conquered by cortez. eventually, the lake dried out over the centuries and what was tenochtitlan is now the central downtown portion of mexico city.

    aside from being the capital of the aztec empire, tenochtitlan was also a center of trade on routes that extended as far as the inca empire to the south and the four-corners area to the north, and beyond. indeed, the aztecs were related, both by language and by blood, to the ute and shoshone tribes in colorado, wyoming, utah, idaho and montana. further, the obsidian for the blades used by the aztecs for their grisly human sacrifices actually came from the yellowstone region.

    to reflect this rich history of migration, conquest and trade, i am forming this meal around various elements, centering on the aforementioned smoked pork barbecue (cerdo a la barbacoa) which will feature two halves of boston butt. cortes documented barbecue-style practices for cooking meat upon his arrival; the common, native meats cooked at that time were javelina, which looks like a small pig but is actually a rodent, and turkey, but we will be using pork, which was subsequently introduced by spain. also included will be ecuadorian choclo loaf, which reaches back to the inca empire, and a version of anasazi beans, which predate the pueblo and navajo cultures in the american southwest. further, i will be incorporating seasonings, herbs and spices that would have been familiar to the conquering spaniards; the resulting subtleties in flavours will be the glue binding the elements of this feast together, much as the influx of spanish language, culture and religion did to these same areas during the 300 years following the arrival and conquest of cortez.

    click here for the running discussion on this topic. more to follow, as it happens!
    Last edited by TasunkaWitko; 04-16-2010, 06:14 PM.
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  • #2
    alrighty - my first step is to begin the preparation of my anasazi beans, which you can read about here. next, i turn my attention to the pork barbecue!

    i am marinating 2 half-butts (about 4 lbs each) in a sour-orange marinade overnight:



    this marinade is a great mexican tradition using sour oranges that really bring out the flavours of pork!



    also, i am soaking some crumbled, dry chiles in cold water overnight (after changing the water a few times):



    the purpose of soaking them is in an attempt to remove some of the heat while leaving all of the flavour. i am using some guajillos (which have a wonderful, earthy and rich smell!) as well as what i think are some new mexico chiles (they are very mild and the right colour for NM chiles) and also some mild green chiles that i don't kow the name of but were given to me as being native to the region around pueblo, colorado; therefore, i call them pueblo chiles, for lack of a better name.

    off to bed and will hopefully rise early tomorrow and begin the rest of the preparations!
    Fundamentals matter.



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    • #3
      This is a great thread..... I am following..
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      • #4
        Interesting stuff.
        Never tried the bitter orange, I'd like to learn more about that as well.
        JT

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        • #5
          Keep it going Taz...great start and can't wait to see how it turns out.
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          • #6
            lookin good..........
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            it's all good my friend..........

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            • #7
              Loving it so far!
              Betting this is going to be one great meal.
              There is a cure...http://phoenixtears.ca/

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              • #8
                hey, guys - thanks for the comments so far. things are looking good and below is an update, but to answer WF's question, the bitter/sour orange marinade is something that originated from an orange called the seville orange (presumably developed near seville in spain). it is a traditional latin american flavour that is really popular with pork and seems to be a hallmark of "yucatan" cooking. perhaps some experts in latin american cooking can expand on this a bit ~

                a little behind schedule this morning, but i think it will be alright ~

                i began today by draining the sour orange marinade from the two half pork butts and patting them dry. then i prepared the achiote paste by mixing the achiote verde with 3 tablespoons of vinegar:



                then, i mixed a few spices and flavours in a bowl -



                2 teaspoons each of
                fine sea salt
                cracked black pepper
                chili powder
                hungarian sweet paprika
                crushed cloves
                ground allspice
                ground cumin
                ground cilantro seed (coriander)
                mexican oregano
                garlic powder
                onion powder

                many of these spices and herbs were already in the achiote verde block and were thus enhanced with a bit of a boost. the other flavours combined very well to produce a rich, earthy aroma and a real party on the taste buds!

                i then combined the spices and herbs with the achiote paste:



                and stirred them together until well-blended:



                then, we proceeded to apply half of the paste to the first butt:



                best results seemed to be obtained by scooping the paste on top of the butt, then patting it down across the top and down the sides. the bottom of both butts were fat cap, so i didn't worry about any seasoning there.

                for the second butt, we chopped up half the chiles that i soaked last night and added them to the paste:



                after applying the paste to the second butt, we let them rest a while while the smoker heated up to about 300 degrees:



                when temperature was reached, we set the butts in the middle of the grate and closed the lid.



                the temperature settled down to 250 degrees and we held fairly well. weather conditions today are sunny with a very slight breeze. temperatures today are expected to be in the high 60s, possibly approaching 70.

                for today's smoke, we're using kingsford briquettes infused with hickory, with occasional additions of large hickory chips as needed.



                meat went on at 0900, and i am hoping for a maximum cooking time of 8 hours. i've never cooked two half-buts before so it will be a learning experience. i intend to hold cooking temps around 250 degrees, plus or minus 10 degrees.

                next up, we'll get the anasazi beans started!
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                • #9
                  Man I wish I could smell that from here.
                  Got me itching to do another puerco pibil, though not the same I have to imagine the flavors (being somewhat similar) will make an amazing smoke.
                  Infact I might just go out and pick up a butt.
                  I'm sure by the end of this thread I'll have no choice, it will either be that or a whole lot of additional drooling.
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                  • #10
                    it's good stuff for sure, FiU! smelling it is really getting me hungry!

                    at 1100, i checked on the butts and turned them over so tht the fat cap could start melting down, providing a beautiful basting effect....



                    i then completed my opening preprations on the anasazi beans and got them started on the crock pot! take a look!
                    Fundamentals matter.



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                    • #11
                      Oh this sounds really good. I use the bitter or sour oranges in a few Cuban dishes I make. It really adds a great flavor and aroma to the meat. If you can't find it, you can sub orange juice with some lemon juice in it...not quite the same, but it does work in a pinch. I bet this was outstanding. I'd like to try this and use the meat on some Cuban "style" sandwiches YUM I loved reading the history with this, very cool!

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                      • #12
                        never had the verde.......just the traditional red.
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                        it's all good my friend..........

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                        • #13
                          Great Thread Steve..... The History and the Pics..... Nice Work

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                          • #14
                            Yet more good info, the Verde is also a new one on me. I am assuming it's got a tomitillo base instead of tomato. Would that be correct?
                            I am also looking at the flavor profile. You've got the bitter orange as well as what I would guess, a tartness in the achiote. Any sweetness in the mix? or is that the point of the combinations. My only experience in latin food is the traditional Mexican/ Tex-Mex flavors.
                            JT

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                            • #15
                              WF - i also thought that the achiote verde was based on tomatillos, but this proved not to be the case. i don't remember all of the ingredients, but tomatillos were not there. i believe the main ingredients (in no particular order) were salt, pepper, garlic, onion, oregano and allspice.

                              i didn't add any sweetness to the mix, but looking back, it might have been a nice thing to do. the aztecs would have had honey available to them, and this might have been a good finishing sauce combined with the leftover naranja agria and maybe a few chiles, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

                              having said that, i am going to go out on a limb and say this was one of the tastiest and most well-put-together meals i've done in a long time! using the themes outlined in the opening post, i pulled together cuisines from peru to colorado and brought them onto a single plate. very impressive to all five senses!

                              as the afternoon wore on, the bark on the butts continued to get darker and darker and the fat cap continued to melt down over the pork, basting it with wonderful flavours:



                              i didn't get any pix on the grate after this, but no worry. the fat cap rendered out to a crispy, crusty top and the bark got somewhat darker, but stayed flavourful. every time i flipped the butts over, a bit of the crust came off on my fingers; what else could i do but give it a try?

                              i could easily taste the cloves, allspice, the achiote verde and everything else. it was wonderful! the chopped chiles on the "spicey" butt stayed pretty warm, but it was nothing overwhelming.

                              after a while, the bones twisted out and the top layers of emat were starting to slough off. the internal temps were still a little low (187 and 190), but no big deal. we removed them from the grate and served them up as it was getting pretty late.

                              for the most part, they pulled easily, but in the center we did have to cut up the core of meat, which was very much done but not yet "barbecue." here's a picture of the non-spicey butt - very nice smoke penetration and melting of fat/collagen:



                              and here's the spicey butt with the chiles on the outside. you could taste them, but they didn't overwhelm!



                              for whatever reason, smoke penetration didn't seem as good with this one.perhaps it rose faster in temperature and got above 140 degrees (stopping smoke ring formation) before the other one did. i am sure that they were both still a bit frozen in the centre when they went on the grate at 0900, and this one might have been more frozen that the other. this would also account for the 10+hour cooking time, in spite of the relatively low weight (about 4 lbs each).

                              after shredding these babies, we served up our aztec style feast. we used the mayan pickled onions as a garnish for the pork on tortillas in a sort of carnita style, for lack of a better word:



                              the marinade from the onions also made a good spoon-on sauce for the carnitas!

                              along with the carnitas, we served our version of ecuadorian choclo loaf:



                              and our version of anasazi beans:



                              results were outstanding and the meal was a pretty big hit!

                              can't think of too much i would do differently, just a few little tweaks here and there. I must say i was envious of john's beautiful red colours when he did his version of this, but the flavours are the important thing, and this feast provided them in spades!

                              plenty of beans and pork for leftovers as well, which means great lunches for this week! can't ask for anything more than that!

                              if anyone is looking for a meso-american experience, this is a sure-fire way to travel to that time. the foods here are not 100% authentic (newer spices etc.), but they will certainly put you at in the halls of montezuma ~
                              Last edited by TasunkaWitko; 04-20-2010, 09:48 AM.
                              Fundamentals matter.



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