Black Forest Maple Bacon

[hog warden]

AMZN quit after 11 hours, and this is what I found.

Pulled one of each, trimmed the skin off, then put them in the freezer for 2 hours to stiffen up enough to slice. Took about 10 slices of each with a knife.

After a blind taste test, lady I'm married to chose the Black Forest version as her preference and proclaimed it pretty damn good! (A relief, since what was I gonna do with 15 pounds of something she would not eat as we have it 4 days out of 5 for breakfast?

Over time, it appears the salt and sugar have balanced out, or else the 3 hour soak helped, as this is NOT too salty. Has a completely different flavor profile than anything commercial however, and it is better. Have also talked to a friend who has a commercial grade Hobart slicer and he has agreed to slice all this up for me, with the caveat to expect some shrinkage.

So, the answer to the age old question......."How you gonna keep em down on the farm, after they've seen Paree?"......is feed em home cured, home smoked bacon. They will be home in time for breakfast.

[Bearcarver]

Nice Job Warden!!

Don't forget some pics of slices!!! That be me favorite!!


Bear

[TasunkaWitko]

Sounds just about perfect, if you ask me - congratulations on some outstadning bacon!

Judging by the reviews, I'm guessing that you will be making more of this bacon. As you get more experienced with it, you might consider experimenting a little with a longer smoke time (it's pretty amazing how much smoke bacon can take in and just keep getting better - up to a point, I am sure, but longer than we realise). Also, dry-aging the bacon will take this wonderful stuff and make it even better as it matures, providing a rich, subtle quality that cannot be quantifed, but can certainly be appreciated. Temperature, humidity and other factors will affect how the dry-aging goes, but one can play around with it a little bit with no worries, as the curing process has done its work.

If/when you want to start looking into these facets of charcuterie, BriCan, and many others here are a wealth of information that can give you a hand, but the best thing I can suggest is to simply play with it, and see what you like and how much of it you like - and above all, do not be afraid to push the envelope. Start with baby steps, if you like - but do indeed start! You're not going to ruin it, but you will probably find one heck of a "sweet spot" where all of the factors produce something that would be good enough to make a puppy pull a freight train!

I should have been setting mine out to dry last night so that I could smoke it tonight, but came home to a series of household brushfires that needed putting out. This prevented me from doing what I have been planning to do, which is to assemble me MES 30 that I ordered a while ago so that I could christen it with this bacon smoke (even though ti's a cold smoke). So, I'll hopefully get everything in line tonight, and will be smoking tomorrow night.

[Bbqgoddess]

Ron, as usual, a fantastic post well documented and just fascinating I love your passion and follow through. You are a walking plethora of knowledge, not to mention all the kind things you say about Mrs Taz
Recently my family had a get together and my brother had brought some "black forest bacon" it was yummy, very very dark in color as is a black forest ham. Through my research I found that the "black forest" term in Germany must come from the Black Forest region, as champagne from that region in France to be true champagne or Black forest, also there was something about the blood of the pig being used to achieve the flavor in addition to the color. Once I saw that I figured well I won't be making this ever. I am asking this because perhaps you have saved me with your passion and love for all foods from all places, can you speak to the difference in your wonderful bacon and that bacon which would be made in the same manner as the black forest ham from Germany? Im really just curious to know and you are the man to ask. Your bacon looks incredible! and thanks for your knowledge in advance!
Kelly

[TasunkaWitko]

Hi, Kelly, and muchas gracias for the kind words!

There are definitely some differences here between the "real" Black Forest bacon and this bacon. This is not intended to be the same as that traditional charcuterie; I chose the name simply to highlight the two major characteristics about it (which were the Black Forest spice mix and the maple sugar), rather than to designate the classification or the origin of it. The spice mixture definitely brings forth images of that region of Germany, and the maple is certainly a unique touch that really adds to depth and sophistication. While not traditional, the maple sugar is such a great compliment to the spice mixture that I can't imagine NOT using it.

BriCan would probably be the best source of knowledge about "real" Black Forest bacon in the regional and traditional sense, but here are a few things that I do know:

As I said above, the traditional version would not have the maple sugar; also, some sort of spruce would be involved in the smoking process, though I don't know how much of it is used in the blend. I know this flies in the face of everything that we "know" about smoking meats, but that's how it's done there, and I imagine that's what also accounts for the darker colour. When I posted this on FaceBook, a helpful gentleman from Germany explained about the spruce being involved in the smoke, so I know about that; as I recall, beech and oak are also involved in the blend of woods for the smoking.

Two other critical factors (that I have been taking baby steps with) are the long, long, cold smoking (40 hours or more is common) and an extended period of dry-aging the bacon during and after smoking; the time-frame for this depends on humidity, temperature and other factors, of course, but it is much longer than one would think. This makes sense when you consider the original purpose behind curing and smoking meats, which was to lay over food for the winter months. I have never heard of the pig's blood, so I can't say anything for sure about that, but it is certainly a possibility. There might be other differences, but those are the ones that come to mind.

With my limited ingredients, equipment and other resources, I probably will never be able to make the "true" Black Forest bacon, at least not until I have access to the various smoking woods involved. For my first batch of bacon, I used a blend of maple, oak and apple, and it turned out very nicely - but getting closer to the traditional smoke might be difficult. I have plenty of oak, and thanks to Marty and Tanya at www.owensbbq.com, I can get beech, but to my knowledge, there are no food-grade spruce pellets available for smoking meat. BriCan mentioned that if one doesn't have the spruce avaialble, then adding a few juniper berries to the smoke is a fair substitute, and I intend to do that as I prepare to smoke my current batch of bacon (hopefully tonight). The other woods I am using this time are maple and apple, just to use up what I have. For the next batch of this bacon that I make, I will try using oak, beech and possibly maple, with the juniper berries added, and we'll see how that goes.

But, as long as I incorporate the maple sugar in the bacon, it will probably never be "true" Black Forest bacon in the "traditional" sense of the word; however, that's A-OK with me, because that maple sugar adds WAY to much for me not to use it! Besides, I learned long ago that in many important ways, there is no such thing as a truly "genuine" this or that; Europe has many products that are designated by law as having this percentage of this or that, or are prepared in this way or that way, but the fact is that traditionally, there are so many little variations from region-to-region, province-to-province, city-to-city, town-to-town, village-to-village, family-to-family and even cottage-to-cottage. Each step along the way, there will be arguments about which is the "right" or "correct" way - or the ONLY way...and nearly every time, it is a matter of what someone grew up with or is used to, or, more likely, what her grandmother or his grandfather did. It took a while for this factor to dawn on me, and once it did, I stopped worrying about getting something "perfect" or totally "authentic," and instead concentrated on making something "plausible" or "in the tradition of...." In other words, I generally go for something that is representative and reasonably authentic, using the closest ingredients and methods that I can achieve.

In any case, if you want to explore your way into this, I definitely and most heartily recommend it. Mix up some of that spice mixture, and I am sure that you will immediately imagine all sorts of possiblilities. While not traditional, I also recommened the use of the maple sugar as described, along with your preferred cure, of course. Use a dry-brine curing method, observe the time-table for curing etc. Do be sure to use the long, cold smoke, and give the spruce (or juniper berries) a try if you can. Don't forget to dry-age the bacon after the smoke, as well, and I'm willing to bet that you will really enjoy this!

[hog warden]

Nice Job Warden!!

Don't forget some pics of slices!!! That be me favorite!!


Bear

So.....all slabs into the freezer for nearly 3 hours, then off to pay my slicer guy a visit. As soon as he got started, I grabbed the first few slices and tossed them on a flat top grill behind the guy slicing and by the time they were fried, my one slicer guy had swelled to include him plus two spectators, then three, then four. Two of them started chirping something about, "heh, thats old time country cured bacon like momma used to make". It was then the shrinkage started. Was beginning to wonder if I was going to get out with any of it. Gave them all half pound or so, but after having turned down offers to sell it to them or at least pay me to make them some. Agreed to show them what I did and they could then make their own. They are all more than capable.

Curious also, delivery truck had just unloaded 30 pound box of commercial bacon, and after tasting what I had I could tell the owner didn't want it (commercial stuff) anymore. Didn't throw it out, but I could almost hear the tumblers clicking in his head.

BTW, in a blind taste test, all 5 chose the Black Forest. The way I did it, there is a subtle difference, but it is different. In short, its all fit to eat.

Thanks to TAS and Bear for all the help.

[Bearcarver]

Looks Great, Warden!!-------

Those are the Pics I like!!

Sounds like you were a Hit !!

Bear

[TasunkaWitko]

Outstanding, HW -

Those photos are incredible, and by the sounds of it, your bacon was absolutely a hit with everyone who has tried it. Great job, and congratulations!

[Bbqgoddess]

Ron! you are truly amazing!
Thank you for the post, and I am going to get some of that maple sugar.... my mind is in a whirlwind know of ideas. I especially love your description of a classic recipe or traditional way of doing something and how it is individual to each his own, as you said being handed down and perhaps a tweak here or there. It is the fundamental art we are learning, honoring if you will. I will keep those words in mind as I try something new, and be less likely to worry about if I am being authentic and more relaxed to embrace the journey!

[TasunkaWitko]

You definitely won't be sorry - I promise you that! The cold-smoking and dry-aging, combined with the fresh, clean, unique Black Forest spice mix and the earthy, subtle maple sugar, really are a winning combination. I know I keep saying that over and over, but it's true - so why not? lol

I just finished my second batch, making it essentially the same as my first, except for these differences:

a) I dialed in the cure/salt amounts more precisely.

b) I used a bit more maple sugar and Black Forest spice mix (1 tablespoon of each per pound during curing, and then another tablespoon per pound of maple sugar on the meat side during the week of equalisation).

c) I added a few juniper berries to the blend of maple/apple/oak pellets that I used for smoking.

d) I smoked for a longer period of time (closer to 30 hours, on and off).

e) I dry-aged for a longer period of time (closer to 4 days - high humidity prevented any further dry-aging).

I have not sampled the bacon yet, as it is is sitting in the refrigerator a few days until I have some time, but I am expecting really good things.

This batch is darker than the first, possibly due to the juniper berries added to the smoke. It might also be an air-flow issue; I cold-smoked this batch in my new MES 30, which required a bit of a learning curve, but I think I got it mostly figured out. I might hang these to air-dry a little more, as they still seem a bit moist, but that's something I that can do over the course of the next couple of evenings, if I choose.

The only "glitch" in this attempt was that the smoking temperatures got a little higher than I intended for a few hours - close to 100 degrees. This was probably a result of using the broken-up bits of charcoal in the bottom of the AMNPS. It is a good practce for certain situations as there is little to no noticable effect during the winter months when temperatures are below zero; however, during warmer periods, it appears to bump the temperatures up a little too high. This is no big deal, as the bacon is perfectly fine - but it is something to be aware of for the future.

That's what I have for now - I am thinking that I need one more third batch to have a good store of bacon in the freezer, so I ordered one more pork belly this morning. I will continue to use this method, as it gives me exactly what I am looking for when I think of making my own bacon. The only "tweaks" that I plan to apply for this third batch are:

a) A slightly-longer smoking time (closer to 40 hours, if feasible).

b) Using a blend of oak and beech, with juniper berries added yet again, for smoking.

c) A slightly-longer dry-aging time, if feasible.

More as it happens, etc. &c.....

Ron

[TasunkaWitko]

An interesting update to post today - it appears as if all of the "salt wars" on this thread were for naught....

I took a package of my first batch of bacon out of the freezer last night, then sliced and cooked half of it (in the oven) as part of breakfast this morning. For this morning meal, I made an old favourite in our house: simple "breakfast sandwiches" consisting of a couple of slices of bacon with a fried egg (cooked to order) on a toasted English muffin - nothing fancy, but always satisfying.

Anyway, I cooked everyone else's first, then served them and cooked my own. The bacon smelled incredible - smoky and full of olde-tyme promise of a wonderful meal. I deliberately did not sample the bacon, though, as I wanted to taste it with the sandwich and evaluate it with the other flavours of the sandwich.

Then, as I came out of the kitchen with my own breakfast, the beautiful Mrs. Tas asked, "Was this bacon from your second batch? It tastes great - and not salty at all!"



"No," I replied, "This was from the first batch."

So I tried mine, and it was perfect - absolutely no hint of excessive salt, with the sweet maple and zingy Black Forest spice coming through beautifully - neither over-stated nor muted, but in wonderful partnership with each other, the smoke, and the salt. Speaking of the the smoke flavour, which had been a little on the "assertive" side at first, it now seemed to have penetrated deeper, losing its edge and becoming a beautiful part of the whole.

I can only guess that over time, before freezing, the flavours in the bacon had come to harmonious equalisation; instead of being all on the surface. This underscores the importance of the dry-aging process - after smoking - and with that, I definitely encourage all to be sure to follow that step.

My third pork belly will arrive soon - we'll see how it goes!

[hog warden]

Quick update.....having already gone through about half of what I made, thought it might be interesting to try a new test. Last time I ducked into the store for some essentials, grabbed a pack of store bought bacon.....but not just any store bought, this was the country bacon from this place:

http://www.smokehouse.com/burgers.ns.../country-bacon

As close to what I made as is likely to be found, at least around these parts. So without telling anyone, fried some up. Response was immediate. "Where did this come from? Is this what you made? This is too salty and doesn't taste as good. Did you make this? No? Well yours is way better than this.
"
Edited to include 2nd test: Hormel Black Label, sugar cured, thick sliced, hardwood smoked. Homemade stuff beat that too.

Bottom line, be careful when making stuff like this, else you may get yourself a job for life. Worse things could happen.

[TasunkaWitko]

I started a new project based on this theme last night, and I hope that it goes well.

A while ago, I bought a pig; when I had the butcher go to work on it, I asked him to save some parts that would normally be ground into sausage or used for other purposes. One of those cuts was the jowl...well, both jowls, actually.

Last night, I began the process of making pork jowl bacon, using this "Black Forest Maple" process, which has become my go-to method.



The two jowls were each just under 0.85 pounds, so I adjusted the amount of cure ("TennerQuack", from Mad Hunky Meats), backing off the amount by 20%, as discussed above for bacon. This will work out well, since the jowls are on the thin side, and I'll be curing for nearly 2 weeks, if not three. Once I applied the cure, I dusted the jowls with a tablespoon each of maple sugar and a Black Forest spice blend, made according to BriCan's authentic family recipe that he generously shared with me.

The jowls are curing now, and will be until at least the weekend of 6/7 May, possibly a week longer. Once the curing is complete, I'll continue with the dry-cure, cold-smoking procedure, as described above.

I also have a couple of pork bellies from this same pig; when I am able to, I will be giving them the same treatment.

I'd like to take a moment and sincerely thank BriCan for sharing what he knows about curing and charcuterie; thanks to him, I am making better bacon than I ever could have made on my own!

Ron

[TasunkaWitko]

Just a quick (and probably unnecessary) update - I flipped and massaged to packages containing the jowls last night.

Things are looking really good! The process, as you all know, produces some juices that allow the cure and the flavours to get to all surfaces of the meat, and this was definitely happening here. I think we're right on track for some good stuff ~

Ron

[TasunkaWitko]

I was out of town over the weekend, but luckily my #2 son Mike has been flipping the packages containing the bacon daily, so all is well. Truth be told, I am sure that the bacon would have been just fine anyway, but it is nice to follow a procedure, so as to produce the best, most consistent results.

I will continue the flipping and massaging of the packages for the remainder of the week, then will move to the next stage of the process, which involves rinsing the bacon in cold water, re-applying the maple sugar, and allowing the salt content to equalise before smoking. I expect to smoke this bacon on the weekend of 14/15 May, but if for some reason I am unable to, I will do it the weekend after.

These jowls are fairly thin, so I expect that realistically, the curing process is nearly complete; however, since I did back off on the cure/salt a bit, and because of my scheduling issues, I am happy to extend the timetable a bit. The bacon will not suffer because of it.

More as it happens, etc. &c....

Ron